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12 months later…

So, a year after I completed my walk, I am back in Cornwall and back on parts of the coast path. And it feels like yesterday that I was last treading the path – it’s great to be back (and in the sunshine again – luckily). Infinitely preferable to sitting at a desk staring at a computer and thinking about economics. A no brainer, as they say. (Admittedly had it been hoofing it down with rain I may think differently…. but I think it’s very unlikely!). Again I find myself compelled to burble ad nauseam about how stunning the views are, how pretty the flowers… etc etc. The perspective brought by a year back at work brings the realisation of how lucky I was to experience last year’s walk – and of course of how lovely it was that so many people came along to be part of it with me.

My return to the coast path also brings the certainty that any fitness I may have gained last year has long since departed. (“A hill?! Yer wot?!”). Admittedly I already knew this (my trousers told me) – one for the homework list, methinks. Nonetheless I soon forgot about that, being happily distracted by the views and walking and just the fact of clean air. A walk down to Lundy Bay and along to Port Quin was rewarded by watching a hawk hunting just ahead of us and by a delicious chocolate biscuit from Fiona’s Cafe at Port Quin (a converted “vintage” van providing sarnies and snacks in the car park – excellent), before the return trundle.

A couple of days later we walked from Padstow to Stepper Point and back, via a field of barley audibly popping in the sun and refreshments at the Rest-a-While tea garden (an enterprising individual serving refreshments in the back garden via the kitchen window – fantastic views from said garden) to find a bullock hiding in the shade of the tower at Stepper Point – he appeared by reversing out of the doorway, surprising a number of walkers as his backside suddenly materialised. That appeared not to be satisfactory, though, as he went back in, turned around and stuck just his head out, presumably to keep an eye on goings-on while remaining in the shade (see below). After laughing at him (from a safe distance) we returned to Padstow for pasties on the harbour wall and Roskilly’s ice cream. Obvs. And last but not least on the walking front, a (genteel) scramble up the rocks at the mouth of Boscastle harbour, rewarded with a pretty much bird’s eye view (there was a gull perched next to me; that counts) back into the harbour and town. All good stuff.

bullock

And now, nearly two weeks after starting to write this, I am back in London. So it’s about time I actually finished this now-geographically-inaccurate post.

The End, etc.

 

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A walk in numbers

Miles walked – 300
Total height climbed – 58,312 ft
Lovely walking buddies – 12
Generous sponsors – 171 (so far)
Money raised – 5,601.15 (and counting)
Close calls with cliff edges – 1
Bulls encountered – 2
Calories expended – millions
Calories consumed – millions + 1
Fish suppers – plentiful
Pasties – 7 (poor effort)
Roskilly’s chocolate ice creams – unadmittable
Photos taken – 4,303
Spontaneous fallings over – 2
B and Bs, hotels and pub rooms sampled – 29
Pub bars sampled – classified
Swims – 1
Paddles – 5
Lovely houses spotted that I’m not going to buy – 7
Favourite moments – all of them
Nosey ponies – 1
Diffident ponies – 23
New walks in mind – 3 (at least)
Inclination to go back to work – big fat zero.

All content copyright Briony Reed and A Cornish Adventure, 2013. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Briony Reed and A Cornish Adventure with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

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How did that happen so quickly?

So, I’m all done. Cornwall has been circumnavigated, as it were. At least, all the sea-y bits have been! And a stunning and wonderful experience it has been; if anyone out there is wondering if they should hit the South West Coast Path, the answer is indisputably yes. (As long as you have comfy footwear, waterproofs, sunscreen, hair that can be kept out your face in the wind, a plentiful supply of jelly babies and a liking for Roskilly’s ice cream, obviously.) I can’t quite believe it’s all done – seemed to go so fast.

Having hit Plymouth and the Cornwall-Devon border (south) at the end of June with admirable assistance from Dean, Louise, Rachael and Baz, I sampled the delights of a city-sized selection of possible lunch venues – I didn’t quite know what to do with all the choice. We opted for River Cottage canteen which had some very good fish and chips and some seriously good cider. Annoyingly, I forget the name. All very nicely rounded off with afternoon tea (more food!) in Plymouth Barbican and champagne (more booze!) in the evening sunshine on Plymouth Hoe. Great stuff.

But not quite all finished yet! I then had a two-week sojourn back in Wimbledon to keep an eye on Andy Murray and make sure he won the tennis, and returned to Cornwall just as the summer really got into its stride (how good to be able to say that) to finish off The Great Tramp.

Waterproofs very satisfyingly stayed in the bag for the next two weeks, as I returned to Porthcothan and headed north towards Marsland Mouth and the county border – with the sea on the other side! Most peculiar. However, even my sense of direction can handle “keep the sea on the left now rather than the right”, so thankfully there was no need to panic and I happily toddled off northwards.

Fabulous though all the B and Bs were, it was a treat to be based in the lovely Little Pityme with Mum for the first week back walking. Really enjoyed the time there and am very grateful for all the ferrying about among various walk spots. Was a Very Good Thing Indeed to have the flexibility provided by the car and be able to rejig walks a bit when my knees decided to register their displeasure at being launched into 25 miles in two days after two weeks of watching tennis. (Yes I realise some people regard that as a single day’s walk…)

And finally I was joined by Emily – who tackled many climbs in blazing sunshine, plenty of head-staggery moments and various random bulls in fields with admirable aplomb – for the final three days of walking and the completion of the round-Cornwall challenge. Ahead of the final day we did encounter a weather-beaten local who said “ooh that’s a tough walk”, which is generally a warning sign to be heeded. But, armed with ignorance of what *exactly* was involved (and a bee costume for me), we set off relatively undaunted and arrived at the Cornwall-Devon border (north) several hours later via a number of decent valleys in the sunshine, one bull field (sans bull, thankfully, as we had wandered through said field to find a sign re bull on the exit stile only…), truly spectacular scenery and a field of fat ponies.

What a moment it was to reach the little wooden border sign! Who knew signage could be so pleasing a sight. Sad too, though, in a way – what to do with myself now?! The immediate challenge however was to find The Old Smithy pub in Welcombe. Which is a fabulous place, and a very good thing that is too as the final slog up a long concreted track in baking heat and pestered by horse flies came close to inducing a sense of humour failure, but soon we were happily established with long cold drinks in a garden with a sprinkler (very welcome on a hot day) waiting for a taxi (oh the luxury of moving at car speed!) to transport us back to Bude for dust removal and a celebratory dinner and bottle of vino, and a chance to reflect on the miles covered (a fair few).

The End.

(for now, at least. This post is long enough, so here’s a picture of the bee costume and ta-ra for now!).

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Thoughtments

I have Internet! I have Internet, I have Internet, I have Internet!

Thoughtment the first – I hadn’t realised how much I rely on mobile and Internet access until it disappeared off and on for weeks. Sobering – I clearly need a digital detox… Although I tell myself it’s ok for fund-raising efforts, as that is indeed the point of this venture… Dear reader take note, and if you’re reading this and/or enjoying the FB pics but haven’t yet made a contribution please go to http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/BrionyReed and bung a little on! Any contributions of any size will be gratefully received… And of course many thanks again to those who have already done so.

Crashing on to thoughtment the second… Walking on my own has been an eye-opener. I discovered in four days on my own that perhaps I am not as anti-social and curmudgeonly as I thought (if anyone begs to differ you can let me know about that some other time!). I have recently encountered the TV detective (www.thetvdetective.com) on a ferry from Falmouth in the rain (of course), and an impressive lady from Colorado taking a tribute trip to visit her late husband’s family’s place of origin. Given that in London it’s assumed you’re a loon if you look at anyone you don’t know, never mind actually *speak* to them (heaven forbid!) I’d have missed out on both positive chats there. Bit of a culture shock for me, but a good thing.

Thoughtment the third. If, as the South West Coast Path Association website tells me, I have now walked 217.4 miles and climbed a total of 38,586 ft (11,761 metres in new money, just for good measure), then WHY HAVE I NOT GOT SMALLER?!?!?!?! That’s more than the height of Everest; surely I can’t have eaten enough cooked breakfasts and Roskilly’s to counteract that? Can I? The mind boggles.

And now I have less than 15 miles to Plymouth. I will clearly have to walk them extremely fast indeed to make up for all the scoffing.

Thanks now go to Natalie and Dean for accompanying me for my latest walk instalments, and to the about-to-arrive Louise and Rachael… I have been seen safely through the delights of Mevagissey and the rather fabulous fish and chips in the Fountain Inn, the “impossibly picturesque” Polperro and, one of the best things ever, a statue of Nelson the seal, “ambassador for his species”, in Looe harbour. Which also got the prize for first lady ferry pilot of the trip, who was very sensibly wearing wellies (nope, not Hunters!) and not drinking tea.

On that note, I must prepare myself for the aforementioned arrival of R and L, who will be coming along for the final fling into Plymouth. At least, until I return from London (with clean clothes!) to tackle the fearsome north-east patch of coast…

http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/BrionyReed (just in case it didn’t get spotted earlier!)

Character of the day: Sidney the sociable bullock.

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A slight change in the weather…

I have seen some delightful variations in the conditions in the last 24 hours, I can tell you. Was thoroughly soggified on arrival at the rather imposing Trewithian Farm B and B last night (which scores major brownie points for having a parrot in the hallway – and yes it did manage to con me it was a person – waited til I was out of sight and then said “hello”. You can guess what happened next…). Clothes and shoes promptly dispatched to dry out over the Aga, I decided a hot shower and an indulgent dinner at The Rosevine were in order.

And I can report on an excellent dinner, with The Rosevine putting in a very strong contender for the chocolate-mousse-of-the-year award (these things are important) – a wonderful blob of mousse with salted caramel and a stick of shortbread. Quite something (so good it deserves a paragraph of its own).

Anyway, the walking! Despite the best attempts of the weather the journey from Falmouth was wonderful – a highly entertaining (in a good way) couple of ferry trips from Falmouth to St Mawes and from St Mawes to Place and a very pretty walk onwards. It was enchanting in near-constant rain; must be staggeringly lovely in sunshine (see pic and imagine in technicolour…). Definitely one to revisit.

Other recent discoveries are the seriously chocolate-boxy Church Cove on the Lizard, how photogenic cow parsley can be (at least, I think so…), the rather lovely Trebah Garden with a cove all of its own, the seriously homely and comfy Gold Martin B and B in Mawnan Smith, and Pendennis castle – where in fact one of the most exciting sights was a bird of prey (no, I don’t know which one) hovering for a long time over the sea and then right by the castle, only to be chased off by a protective crow. It sounds less thrilling than it was to watch but it was a seriously impressive creature. Not sure it’s a display the castle can provide on demand, admittedly, but great to see nonetheless.

In other musings, what is it with Cornish ferrymen and cups of tea / bare feet? Seventy-five percent (I’ve been working at the EIU too long, clearly) of those I have encountered so far have had one or the other, if not both. Ok so the total number is only four, but still. The tea I can understand – the feet, less so…

On that note, I shall start preparing myself for my walk ahead to Portloe. I have been woken early by the cows (mooing, not turning up to wake me!), who make a rather good alarm clock. I think I shall have some blustery wind to contend with, but no doubt will weigh myself down with plenty of unnecessary stuff in my backpack! Fingers crossed the sun comes out again later…

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And on to the south coast…

Things I have learned since my last post:

1. The value of washing machines. Hand washing can only get you so far; I was almost as excited at the sight of a launderette the other other day as I have been at each sighting of a Roskilly’s ice cream vendor.

2. The value of cars. (Not really. More the value of not using them.)

3. If you find the coast path occupied by several cows and a bull, do not attempt to circumvent them by walking (I use the term “walking” loosely) through a gorse field. You can’t walk normally through gorse, and it will go through your trousers and leave red blots all over you. And you’ll be stuck where you are if the bovine ones do take exception to you (thankfully in this case they had higher priorities than daft humans stuck in gorse bushes).

All of this information will obviously be stonkingly useful in London.

Beyond these gems, I’ve had many highlights in the last week or two… The fabulous Tinner’s Arms in Zennor provided us with very comfy beds and delicious grub part way through the relatively wild and woolly but glorious path round the Western end of Blighty on our way from St Ives; as did the Old Coastguard in Mousehole once Western intrepidatiousness had been completed. Land’s End provided some glorious tat shopping opportunities and the chance of a cheesy photo with The Sign (a tenner, but it has to be done); Penzance brought the parky but brilliant Jubilee Pool (see pic; no problem once you’re in and are numb anyway). Plus trundling over to St Michael’s Mount and it’s been a whole world of new experience…!

And of course the coast itself remains as stunning as ever in the sunshine – gorgeous little coves between Marazion and Porthleven, and everything from craggy headlands to tranquil wooded passages on the path. And cows. And ponies. I prefer the ponies.

AND I have officially surpassed the 100-mile mark (by some way now), and obviously am feeling inordinately pleased with myself about it. (!) Legs still in situ.

And last but not least, thank you so much to those who have already joined me on the walk – to M, Debbie, Stu, Ruth, Fiona, Alison and Rachel – thank you very much for the support, and I hope you’ve enjoyed it as much as I have. And to those yet to arrive – look forward to seeing you!

On that note, I must go to kip in the lovely Boak House B&B in Coverack – well worth a mention as anywhere where the welcome involves a G&T and three friendly woofers is more than ok in my book – in preparation for my 7am start and 13 miles tomorrow. Wish me luck!

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One week in…

So, I am off. A successful first week’s walking with hugely helpful vehicular support from Mum sees me from Porthcothan to St Ives, and slightly surprised to have walked that far and to still have fully functioning legs and feet. This is encouraging.

Less so is today’s weather, which saw my expensive “all the gear and no idea” waterproof purchases given their first real test. Thankfully they passed. Other than that I have been lucky with sunshine and have a pink nose and very freckly mitts to prove it. Glorious sunshine if not hot, but that’s great for walking.

Things I have learned this week are quite how much downhill is preferable to up, how bad my navigational skills are (even on a coast path route I can go the wrong way), and how much friendlier people are when you get out of London. Ok, I knew all that already, but it’s been emphasised by experiences so far. I’m impressed by the fact that every single walker says hello. Most cheering.

Other highlights so far have been the wonderful Fern Pit Cafe and ferry near Newquay (www.fernpit.co.uk) – fantastic views while you eat your sarnie and a barefoot, tea-bearing ferryman accompanied by dog – and the sight of practise aerobatics near Godrevy head. Not to mention all the glorious colours and sights of the North Cornish Coast. Have a look at http://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk

Have now been joined by Debbie and Stu in the lovely St Ives, and about to set off round The End! See you on the other side!

All content copyright Briony Reed and A Cornish Adventure, 2013. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Briony Reed and A Cornish Adventure with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.